Le Cordon Bleu - Instruction #10; Practical #10

We went immediately into Instruction #10, once we cleaned up from Practical #9. As if that wasn’t enough, Practical #10 followed. It was a long day. A first for me – two practicals in one day. And I loved every minute of it.

Once I’m at school, in my uniform, I prefer to work. The three hour spotty days are sometimes frustrating. It almost felt like a real-world job. Working eight hours. Non-stop. I’d prefer a ten or twelve hour day. But, one thing at a time.

Instruction #10

• Upside-down tomato and fennel tart
• Lobster à la américaine, rice with raisins
• Chocolate cream soufflé, orange ice cream

Chef Tivet led us down this path. Most students complain about him. Commenting he’s too messy in demonstrations. Yells too much in practicals. And generally is a grumpy man.

I love Tivet.

Watching him during class is motivating. He is so happy. And proud. And excited about what he’s making. The rapture leaks out his pores as he teaches. It’s not about the antiquated recipes he’s showing us – I agree they are dated and sometimes not very good. No. It’s about technique – enthusiasm, pride. Techniques that are often overlooked.

I leave everyone of Chef’s instructions happy to be doing what I’m doing. He makes me feel like I too could have a love affair with food. Wild ecstasy. Right in the kitchen. Most importantly, Chef illustrates how effective an attitude can be.

Other chefs complain about the recipes. Whining about the lack of modernism. Quite frankly. This leaves me questioning my choice of schools and whether or not I want to be in this profession. Deserting any motivation that I may have.

With a big grin and the giddiness of a five-year old, Chef Tivet roasted tomatoes. Peeled, seeded, sprinkled with salt, pepper, sugar, and ground coriander the tray of tomatoes went into a 100 degree Celsius oven for an hour. (Ideally we would have roasted at 60 degrees Celsius of 6 or 7 hours.)

Bâtonnets of fennel, onion, and celery were put on to slowly stew/sauté for the tart entrée.

Crème anglaise – the base to any ice cream – was flavored with Grand Mariner. Chilled. And passed through an ice cream machine. Near the end of the lesson Chef prepared the chocolate soufflé.

Lobster à la américaine takes its name from a cruise-liner of the recent past. Making frequent trips between France and New York City, this dish was always on the menu.

A whole lobster is sectioned into five pieces. Since it’s imperative the lobster be alive right before cooking, this made for an awkward moment. Handling this, Chef took a pot of boiling water. Dipped in the lobster’s face – only the face – until it was dead. Now the lobster, freshly killed, was ready for segmenting.

First the claws were ripped off. Then the tail, which was cut into three large chunks. Separating the head and body. Scooping out the tomalley and coral. Which look like the brains of the creature, but really are the digestive gland and female reproductive roe. Reserved in butter, these will finish the sauce by thickening.

Fumet, shallots, cognac, white wine, tarragon, and tomatoes simmered away. The lobster sections were briefly cooked in the sauce. Straining the sauce into a blender with the butter-tomalley/coral, mixing well. Making a thick – bisque-like – liquid.

In all this was a very good dish. Accompained only by rice with golden raisins.