Le Cordon Bleu - Instruction #9; Practical #9

The menu was no secret. Just the details.

Instruction #9 – Bordelais

• Pojarski-style oysters from Arcachon
• Bordeaux-style duck breasts, potato and bacon rounds
• Bordeaux canneles

Essentially. Pojarski [Russia]. Means stuffed with sausage and rolled in breadcrumbs. An unlikely pair, oysters and sausage, that is. But in this region, a menu cornerstone.

Smoked slab bacon, pork shoulder, veal, and pork fatback pass through a meat grinder. Combined with salt, pepper, and ground coriander. Onions and shallots that have been sweated in butter are also added. Along with parsley, cream, eggs, and breadcrumbs. Chilled to slightly firm.

Poached oysters accompanied the sausage. Along with a sauce of oyster liquor, Bordeaux white wine, shallots, and cream. All emulsified with cold butter. Of course.

In addition to passing oysters on the side, a few were tucked into the center of each sausage roll. The plate was finished with oyster leaves. These amazing leaves that taste just like – I mean identical – to oysters.

As you can imagine. This dish tasted of oysters. With sudden bursts of greasy sausage. I like oysters (raw), and I like sausage (any way). But in this combination? It was a bit gaggy. Such was underscored by Chef Caals' own gag-flux after he announced this dish.

The main course got much better.

In the noon slot our group was preparing to make Bordeaux-style duck breast with potato and bacon rounds. Just as we saw Chef prepare the day before.

We started our sauce by sweating shallots with thyme, bay leaf, black pepper, and salt on very low heat. Sweating and sweating the shallots' sugars out. Infusing with the aromatic spices. Once the excess grease was drained. We deglazed with port. Then a bold Bordeaux red wine. Finished with veal stock. And let sit. Slowing reducing. A final strain and dab of butter finished out the sauce.

The tangy-tartness of the wine was prevalent. A bit too much, in fact. Chef Cotte – our practical proctor – suggested a dab of vinaigre de xérès, sherry vinegar, to balance the acidity. It worked. Fruity. And succulent.

As we prepared in Basic Cuisine for the duck à l’orange. We trimmed. Cut. And pan seared a huge magret duck breast. This time. For Intermediate.

Passed along side. A potato and bacon round – a potato pancake of sorts. And some stewed leeks that were finished with cream.
Overall Chef was happy with my dish. He did mention a bit more reduction on the sauce, but otherwise, très bonne.

Switching gears back to demo. Chef Caals finished his presentation with Bordeaux canneles. A small cake – it’s actually more of a puffed-up crepe – baked in individual molds. Directly from the oven the outside is moister than the interior, the ideal eating moment. As they rest. The exterior begins to caramelize. Leaving a custard-like center. Some find this texture more superior.