When I think of practicals. These days. I don’t have much to say.
Having become common place and routine, practicals tend to go by without incidence. That’s not to say that faults, confusion, and mishaps don’t still occur. Suggesting only another day in the kitchen.
With that said. I’ll try to think of some creativity for my comments on Practical #10.
There’s no doubt that the room was filled with an aroma. That transported us to North Africa. Or at least some land foreign to French soil. Szechuan pepper, coriander and cumin seeds, cinnamon sticks, star anise, and cloves gently simmered. In a sauce of honey, balsamic vinegar and veal stock. Traditionally flavored with onions, shallots, and tomatoes.
Slowly braising lamb shanks should take three or four hours. Respecting limited practical time Chef Poupard instructed us to let it cook for one hour. Practical Chef – some guest chef – thought otherwise. His constant, pas cuit comment got old after some time. We all got it – let meat braise for a long time.
Making chlorophyll – to essentially color – for gnocchi was a first for me. Quickly blanching leeks greens, parsley and tarragon stems, and spinach leaves in boiling, salted water helps fix the bright green color.
Once the greenery was shocked in ice water – additional assurance of a bright green color – and dried, they were blended. Into a green slurry. On extremely low heat water slowly evaporated. Ultimately leaving green pulp, chlorophyll.
Mixing the final product in prepared gnocchi batter transformed the pale, golden-yellow, potato mash into a beautiful green glow. Poached and served along white salsify and brown lamb shanks really made them pop.
It was a start-and-stop type of practical. Rush to get the lamb in the oven. Wait for potatoes to bake. Zip to stew the salsify. Pause to poach the gnocchi. Hurry to reduce the braising liquid. And hold off on final plating.
The end turned out good. Comments of cooking the lamb longer from guest Chef permeated everyone’s feedback.
Eating the uncooked lamb for lunch. I think the one hour from last night was more than enough cooking time.
Tuesday, July 6, 2010
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