Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Le Cordon Bleu - Instruction #7; Practical #7

Chef Tivet took lead today. Introducing recipes from the south-west of France.

Mont-de-Marsan – the sitting capital – is located an hour inland. An area that draws fresh seafood from the Atlantic. Ducks, geese, pork and sheep from the surrounding farmland. And a bounty of potatoes, corn, asparagus, and garlic.

The South-West is more widely known for it liqueurs. Armagnac – a degree of cognac – walnut, quince, and blackcurrant brandies. To name a few.

Foie gras. However. Is probably the regions most important product. Widely used in French cuisine, foie gras production reaches nearly 80% in the South-West. Supplemented only by the Alsace and West regions.

Sans foie gras – probably too expensive – Chef created today’s menu.

Instruction #7 – South-West, Landies

  • Roasted squab salad, squab jus vinaigrette
  • Roasted duck “salmis”
  • Swiss roll filled with ricotta and mandarins
Pan-seared squab accompanied by mache made for a typical French salad. It was the vinaigrette that opened my eyes to new possibilities. Oil, vinegar, and mustard – a common dressing base – to start. Finished with a bit of jus made from squab trimmings and aromatics.

Again tasting too much mustard – usual for my palate. I was not a complete fan of the vinaigrette. The concept however, I am sold. This has unlocked a wave of creativity within my brain. Where to take this to now?

The entrée’s salmis term alludes to a traditional French cooking method. Referring to when a slice, or piece of meat, is cooked. And then reheated in the sauce. Typical for game birds – squab, duck, or pheasant. Finally. Cognac and white wine are used to enrich the sauce, not deglaze.

The salmis method protects by not overcooking. Often used for expensive, or delicate, cuts of meat.

Alas. We cooked duck. And reheated it in the sauce. Salmis-style.

If you know jelly roll. Then you get the picture of today’s dessert.

Practical immediately followed today’s demonstration. A bit too much salt in my final sauce. Otherwise good work all around.

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