Le Cordon Bleu - Wines of the World #5

Not necessarily a wine of the world, but wine nonetheless.

Spirits and fruit brandies.

Spirits are those made from grains or wine – brandy, whiskey, vodka, etc. Fruit brandies are just that, made of fruit.

In French, spirits and fruit brandies are called eau de vie. Water of life. In the Middle Ages alchemists were searching for longevity, for the drink of youth. They stumbled upon brandy. This was given to children as medicine. As the negative effects – stunted growth and mental issues – began to show, this practice was quickly abandoned.

Ok, so what is brandy? Brandy is distilled wine or fruit juice. Cognac and Armagnac are the most known. Areas that border Bordeaux to the north and south, respectively.

First a still, dry, white wine – mainly of ugni-blanc – is made. Then double distilled.

Distillation is a process of physically separating elements. That is to say, a process of dissecting the different components within the wine through a physical reaction. This is not a chemical reaction.

The still, dry, white wine is boiled. Vapors of one elements steam out the top. Concentrating the remaining items. And increasing alcohol content. The flavor begins to resemble a spirit by this point. This is a batch process. And repeated twice, double distilled.

Alcohol content by this point is usually around 70%. Due to a tax-break given to liquor at, or below, 40%, the brandy is diluted with pure water to 40%. The liquid is placed in oak barrels to age. Bottled. And finally distributed.

Like French wine labeling, Cognac and Armagnac bear the names of their towns. Cognac is more elegant and refined to the rustic, earthiness of Armagnac. Both tastes knocked my socks off.

Calvados is another well-known French brandy. Made in the northern region of Normandy. From apples. Eau de vie de cidre – water of life of cider.

The process is the same as brandy. Except we begin with cider, not white wine. And a mandatory natural one month fermentation must occur prior to distillation.

Still causing a gasp reflex at 40% alcohol, Calvados is slightly smoothed from apples.

Eau de vie de marc. A.K.A. grappa. This crap is made from pumas – grape residue. At the end of common wine production there is a byproduct of skins and seeds. These are taken, covered with warm water, pressed, and distilled. Producing a ghastly product some actually enjoy.

The smell alone was making me gag. Concerned I’d loose my lunch, I was cautious with my tasting. The flavor was just as bad as expected. HUAOAHU!

Created by monks in Eastern France – monks tend to get bored and discover alcohol, i.e. Dom Pérignon. Eaux de vie de fruits are simply fruit flavored brandies. From fermented and distilled fruit juice. Kirsch (cherry) and cassis (blackcurrant) are probably the most known. But, flavors of raspberry, prune, and yellow plum also exist.

Liqueurs differ from fruit brandies only by sugar content. Fruit macerated in brandies are fortified with sugar. Per liter the sugar content can by as high as 450 grams. Cointreau – orange flavor – is one of the most common.

It was a day of small sips and huge gasps. Amusing nonetheless.

Session #5 – Tastes

• Hines Cognac
• Chateau de Maniban Armagnac
• Chateau du Breuil Calvados
• Gabriel Boudien Eau de vie de Marc
• Plum brandy
• Cointreau