Wednesday, July 28, 2010

Le Cordon Bleu - Instruction #21; Practical #21

Cuisine instruction. The respected practical. Pastry demonstration. And wine class #5 made for a long day at Le Cordon Bleu.

For his last time with our class. Chef Clergue. Happily taught today’s lesson.

Instruction #21
  • Red mullet escabeche, fennel cream
  • Guinea fowl breast cooked on the bone with lemongrass fricandeau of legs and green tomato royale
  • Blancmange with seasonal fruit, mojito sorbet and jasmine tuile
The entrée reminded me of lunch at Hôtel de Crillon with my father-in-law. Pre-cooked red mullet marinated with warm marinade, escabeche.

Adding warm marinade to fish – or any protein for that matter – not only flavors the ingredient, but cooks it as well.

Onions, carrots, and fennel sweat in olive oil with thyme, bay leaf, parsley stems, and garlic. Mixed with white wine and cider vinegars. Red Thai chili and Szechuan pepper added a fiery spice. Simply poured over the fish. And placed in the refrigerator to marinate.

Served along blanched fennel blended with crème fraîche and olive oil. Finally decorated with round, red radishes.

This was a favorite dish of mine. Acidity screamed through from the vinegars, opening the palate. Allowing vegetable and red mullet flavors to develop. Spice quickly followed on the back of the tongue. All cooled by fennel cream.

There are haters – some sit next to me in class. But. Today’s recipe will convert anyone to guinea fowl.

Boning and grinding the legs started the fricandeau – pan fried ground meat. Chorizo, mascarpone, basil and breadcrumbs brought the nutriment into little meatballs. A hot and slow pan-fry finished these tasty bites.

Unlike the legs. The breast was left on the bone. Browned. And finished in the oven over a bed of browned bones, carrots, onions, shallots, lemongrass, and lemon zest. As though someone opened a bottle of aromatherapy. Citrus filled the air.

As the breasts baked, so did green tomato royales – savory custard. Shallots, tomatoes (green because they are firmer and less watery), butter, garlic, salt, eggs, and milk set up in a 100 degree Celsius oven. Like crème brûlée.

Guinea fowl looks and acts like chicken. But, when cooked properly. It’s moist. Part gamey, part domesticated – like wild turkey. And slightly sweet. Paired with lemongrass, this bird is set free. If that’s not enough to convince. One bite into the fricandeau is all it’ll take. You would insist it was pork. Dark, succulent meat takes nicely to mascarpone and basil. A great alternative to Jimmy Dean.
If you are not hooked, call me up. I’ll hand deliver a plate of this revolutionary fowl.

Most of the class perked up when they heard the words. Mojito. Sorbet. The added instructions, add the rum after the mixture is cool to preserve the alcohol. Also helped to grab the group’s attention.

Prior to the rum addition, mint infused sugar-lime-water – part tap, part sparkling.

Blancmange – milk, almond milk, and agar agar – led the first shot-glass layer. Agar agar is similar to gelatin in that it gels liquids. Different because it comes from seaweed – vegan friendly – and can withstand high temperatures. Perfect for hot dishes.

Brunoise of mango, strawberries, pineapple, and papaya topped the blancmange. And jasmine tuiles with sliced almond finished off the plate.

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