Finding Some Jazz in Geneva

I’ve been in the mood for some jazz lately. Not only did I find a fantastic venue last night, but a new favorite artist.

A chanteuse with most lyrics in French, Caracol, stole my heart last night. The more I think about it. The more I realize that this is my favorite music genre.

Le Chat Noir proved to be a great, intimate music hall. It’s more of a room in the basement of a pretty cool bar. I arrived early – to make sure I was able to pick out the best general admission seat. As I sat waiting for the show to start I had two thoughts.

At first I was dreaming about all the music groups of the world. How they probably started in venues just like this. How they would hunker down in some basement and play, or sing, or read poetry, or tell jokes. How they would do anything to practice their passion. Their art.

I saw Tracy Chapman in a similar venue in North Hampton, MA when I was in college. I thought about her. About the B-52’s. Eddie Izzard. And others. Caracol could be the next Grammy winner. You never know.

My second thought was I could die tonight. I looked around the basement studio and noted that the one, small entrance/exit definitely makes this a room that you get trapped in during an emergency. I lived. Cleary.

Here is my favorite song that I heard last night.

Le Chat Noir
13 rue Vautier
Carouge, Geneva
Switzerland

Geneva and Non-Stop Eating

I couldn’t find a bank. Anywhere. I thought this was funny. You know Swiss banks and all.

Since Switzerland doesn’t accept Euros my plan was to withdraw money – Swiss Francs – from an ATM. This proved harder than I imagined. Twice. The first time I hunted for some cash I thought it was a fluke. The second time made me wonder about this city.

Cash – finally – in wallet. I started spending. Hotels, clothing, and gadgets tend to see the frugal side of me. Food. On the other hand. Has no ceiling. I will – and have – dig pretty deep in my pocket for something edible.

My first meal in any city is always local fare. And depending on where I am, sometimes I stick to this. In large cities or Geneva – the International City – I venture beyond what the locals are preparing.

Sticking to tradition my first meal was fondue – a Swiss staple. Then it was Lahmacun – Arabian origin – flat pizza type dough with minced lamb. Prepared at a Turkish restaurant in Carouge. Served with pickles, tomatoes, lemon juice, and sliced onions.

In memory of my grandmother, I just had to get me some Swiss bread. Lathered with butter and strawberry jam. Just like she taught me. Supplemented with a sunflower seed croissant with chive cream cheese. And balloon bread with dried sausage and gruyère. Everything was heavenly. I wanted seconds, but opted to save some space for a large lunch.

For lunch I found myself at Los Incas. Specializing in South American cuisine. Pork tamale and chicharron de chancho. Explaining the later – deep fried, heavily salted pork ribs. Served with white-sticky rice, boiled potatoes, and fresh tomatoes and onions. Recipe directly from Peru.

Still full from the pork-a-plenty lunch. I’m not sure if it’ll be Spanish tapas or Chinese for dinner tonight. Perhaps Italian? This international city really has a lot to offer.

European Travel

Traveling by train in Europe is an endless stream of surprises.

The first surprise is figuring out which station you will depart from. There are five such stations in Paris. Gare de Lyon. Gare du Nord. Gare de Austerlitz. And Gare Montparnasse. This is uncovered at the time of booking.

These are big stations. With multiple platforms. The second mystery. Which platform. Most of these are color-coded. Gare de Lyon for example has blue and yellow platforms. The day of departure – upon arrival at the station – this question is answered.

The final unanswered question is which train. Twenty minutes prior to doors closing and pushing back this is revealed.

It is a serious of movement from one video monitor to the next. I have to ask myself, why all the suspense?

If you can’t tell. I went through the Europe train mystery tour this morning. Arriving – scar less – in Geneva, Switzerland.

Traveling alone, I am taking this opportunity to clear my head. Study. And relax before my final practical exam on Wednesday.

The land which bore 50% of my genes has – so far – been good to me. Like Brussels, I am still speaking French. On the surface making it feel like a Paris suburb. Diving a bit deeper into this city, the Swiss-ness starts to emerge. Fondue for lunch. Red flags centered with a white cross on every building. And the occasional clerk that speaks German (Swiss-German).

Of course the electrical plugs in my hotel are different from the U.S. And from France. So I will check in and write until my laptop dies.

This afternoon’s agenda is the art and history museum, Musées d'Art et d'Histoire. Then dinner and some live music in Carouge, an outskirt neighborhood. Known as the Greenwich Village of Geneva. Full of artsy cafés. Jazz music. And Bohemian boutiques.

Tomorrow is the Red Cross. United Nations. Botanical Gardens. And anywhere else the wind blows.

Here is what this morning brought.

Le Cordon Bleu - Instruction #30

We ended with Champagne.


Basic Cuisine saw its final instruction this afternoon. Given by Chef Lesourd.

Instruction #30

• Rack of lamb with parsley crust, spring vegetables and stuffed tomatoes
• Potato gratin
• Baked Alaska

Chef included. We were all restless today. Tired from the morning’s practical. Less interested in the recipes because we don’t ever have to make them. Anxious about the upcoming final. Sad that the term was ending. And excited to move on.

Some students nodded off to sleep. Others joked with the chef. I took to the giggles. Laughing – and enjoying – myself through the final class.

The only thing left to do for this term is the final exam next Wednesday. Followed by a small graduation ceremony at school. Then it’s Intermediate Cuisine!

Le Cordon Bleu - Practical #29

For the last time in Basic Cuisine I walked into a practical kitchen. Ready to prepare my recipes.

In an effort to soak it all in I took my time. My sweet time. I really pushed myself to think far beyond the recipe. Taking a different angle. While respecting the essence of the lesson.

Duck à l’orange. Gnocchi – Parisian style. And orange garnish. My final result (which I should have taken a picture of) was not only good, but fun to prepare. Interacting with the visiting chef I prepared my dish. Partly learning from him. And partly playing.

I tried to pull back on the Anthony throttle and live in the moment. It was surreal. Like I was living someone else’s life. Naturally stressing about the reducing sauce. But also, gleefully laughing while I played with my ingredients. It was great.

Mentally I was exhausted by the end. Physically gleaming.

I feel good about my final Basic Cuisine effort. Giving it my all.

Le Cordon Bleu - Instruction #29

Neat freak is an understatement. Chef Caals led instruction #29. The official Basic Cuisine chefs, Chefs Stril and Lesourd, are traveling leaving the work for others to fill in. An official Intermediate Chef, it was interesting to see Chef Caals in action.

Constantly wiping down the counter. The oven door handles. The sink. You’d think that I would adore this chef. Not so much. Along with cleanliness comes a packet of undesirable traits. Arrogance. Self-righteousness. Condescending. Are just a few. Oh. He’s also very tall and very handsome – partly absolving his offensive attitude.

All of the sauces and garnishes for #29’s four recipes were already started when we walked in. Leaving it confusing to remember which was which. And not fully understanding the technique. Intermediate should be an interesting struggle.

In a world-wind fashion – while always maintaining a high level of sanitation – Chef Caals instructed.

Instruction #29

• Snails with wild mushrooms in a pastry case
• Pikeperch steak, herb sauce
• Ratatouille
• Duck breast in orange sauce (Duck à l'orange)

Snail-butter really makes this dish pop. Butter, shallot, garlic, parsley, chervil, and a drop of cognac. Melted on top at the last minute. Flavoring the entire dish.

Snails with wild mushrooms in a pastry case begins with the same pastry shell as Quiche Lorraine. Then filled with slowly sautéed mushrooms and snails. Finished with a drizzle of reduced cream. (I went back for seconds!)

The pikeperch, herb sauce, and ratatouille were simply prepared. Similar to many of the previous Le Cordon Bleu recipes.

Reduced dry vermouth, white wine, and cider vinegar made the herb sauce highly acidic – clearing out the nasal passage.

We used the express technique for the ratatouille. Sweating onions, zucchini, red bell pepper, tomatoes, and eggplant. Before finishing in the oven. A true ratatouille is slowly cooked over an extremely low temperature for a lengthy amount of time.

In the end diligent and repetitive reducing made the à l'orange sauce too sweet. I was disappointed with this dish. Presentation and the wellness of the duck were perfect. Taste-wise, it was too much to handle. And too sweet for my migraine-prone brain.

I will be making the duck in my final Basic Cuisine practical on Friday. I would describe my mood these days as melancholy. Encrusted with bitter-sweet. Two emotions that I dislike the most. Angst that my time at LCB will one day end. Ready to be reunited with my husband.