My Favorite Food Things - Day #6 - Cookbooks

The topic of my favorite cookbook is a difficult one. I like the French inspired dishes of The Zuni Café. Chez Panisse Vegetables is the best reference book. For superb pasta dishes I always turn to Cucina Simpatica from Providence’s Al Forno. When it comes to innovation, Under Pressure by Thomas Keller takes the cake. Deborah Madison’s Vegetable Cooking For Everyone is the best book for the culinary novice.

So how can I pick a favorite when the criteria seem endless?

For me, my favorite cookbook is not just a book I use often, but has great elements of all the books I mentioned above. The recipes are globally inspired. The spectrum is covered from proteins - to eggs - to bread - to chocolate. This book also highlights pastas in addition to demonstrating some of the most innovative dishes I have seen. Finally, this book is great for beginners, intermediates, and experts.

The book I am speaking about is of course the Joy of Cooking.

I have turned to this book more often in my years of cooking than any other resource. It was originally published by Irma S. Rombauer in 1936. It is the most published cookbook in the US. Rombauer was not a cook by trade and didn’t seek out to write the country’s most published cookbook. She wrote the book to emotionally deal with her husband’s suicide. It was a sort of therapy that soothed her, but more so, took her mind off of her late husband.

The Joy of Cooking has since been revised (about 6 times) from its original form to include a more global, health conscience, and robust list of recipes.

This is not a glamorous cookbook, but it will be there in any moment of culinary disaster to guide and rectify. If you don’t have one in your epicurean arsenal then pick one up today!

***The Photo at the top is Irma S. Rombauer with her original Joy of Cooking in the 1930's.

My Favorite Food Things - Day #5 - Knives

It is true that a chef’s knife becomes him. The knife is just as important as skill and creativity.

My Global knives are such an integral part of me that I never cook without them. And yes – they will be traveling with me to Paris. And even though Le Cordon Bleu will give me a knife set, I will most likely stick to my trusty Global knives at school.

Global knives – which are Japanese made – are notably light weight. I like the lightness of these knives because it makes maneuvering around ingredients more effortless. The extremely thin, all stainless steel knives however, can easily ‘chip.’ I foolishly opened a package with my chef’s knife and chipped the tip off, so be careful.
The Global knife design is slick and modern, another aspect that I like. Some have criticized the modern design of these knives as being too light and lacking ergonomics. I disagree.

Most respected knives in the culinary world are German and it’s nice to see a Japanese manufacturer making a name for itself in the US. In fact, the introduction of Global knives in the US market – namely at Sur La Table and Williams-Sonoma – opened the door for other Japanese makers. Now you can find a wide range of knives in most stores.

A sharp knife is the most important, and safest, thing that you can do in your kitchen. You will be able to cook better and faster – eliminating some of the stress. More importantly you will reduce injuries – a dull knife will surely cut you, but never a sharp one.

Where Global Knives are Made in Chiba, Japan

My Favorite Food Things - Day #4 - Condiments

Lamb chops marinated in balsamic vinegar. German potato salad finished off with apple cider vinegar. Frisée salad lightly coated with a fig vinaigrette. Bread dipped in fennel infused vinegar.

Can you find the common thread?

Vinegar. No matter the type, age, or use, vinegar is my favorite condiment. In fact it just might be my favorite food.

I love the acidic-ness that vinegar gives any dish. It is a great way to add complexity and depth to food without making things too complicated or caloric. Of course, too much vinegar can make any mouth pucker, so balance is the key.

Like the pyramids, vinegar dates back thousands of years probably originating in Egypt.

Every ethnic table of today uses vinegar in some way or another, here are just a few examples…

British/Canadian – malt vinegar for fries, “chips”
Japanese – sushi rice
Chinese – red vinegar in soups
Italians – balsamic in pasta sauces
Argentina – red wine vinegar for chimichurri
Iran – vinegar and honey (Assyrian Christmas dish)
American – white wine vinegar in chili

Here are some interesting charts. You can click on them to make them bigger for better viewing.

(Source -: Mintel Custom Solutions Data Presented at 2006 VI Annual Meeting)

My Favorite Food Things - Day #3 - Culinary Icon

Everyone has idols. Some have more than others. I certainly have my share, but when it comes to my epicurean idol it’s got to be Ruth Reichl.

You probably are wondering why.

It’s not her job (or should I say ex-job as her magazine, Gourmet, was closed about a month ago). It’s not her past of being a food critic for the LA Times and then the NY Times. It’s not even the fact that she has(d) a close relationship with Alice Waters, owner of the acclaimed Chez Panisse Restaurant.

So then why Ruth? Actually, I’m not sure.

It might be partly based on my desire to be a short, Jewish woman with a head jam packed with thick black waves. It might be because she is a successful foodie living the dream in a smashing Manhattan flat. It might even be because of her food knowledge – which seems endless.

Ruth is a culinary icon. She has risen to a level that I suppose I just aspire to be at. I want to have a knowledge base as deep as her.

Like Ruth, I want to have my hand in changing the beat of the food world pulse – not just a finger on it.

Ruth emanates influence, culinary influence. And as a chef, one thing that I wish for is to have that same type of influential aptitude.

My Favorite Food Things - Day #2 - Food Network Program

Ina Garten’s Barefoot Contessa.

That is the answer to your burning question,
“Do you watch the Food Network?”

I am a long-time viewer of the Food Network, but have become more and more disappointed by their programming in recent times. Lately the Network is overcrowded with shows spouting the best way to bake a cake, where to find the dive-y-est food, and how to eat on a 25 cent budget. These aren’t cooking shows – these are mindless episodes that just happen to talk about edible ingredients.

Ina Garten however, has it all right. She is still making dishes from start to end sans shortcuts. In an episode she not only demonstrates how to cook some fantastic food worthy of any entertainer’s table, but she also showcases her kitchen. Her kitchen is in her desirable Hampton’s house set so perfectly on the beach. From her kitchen pass the acre-plus herb garden is a magnificent view of New York’s skyline. Stunning!

Barefoot Contessa and Ina were nominated - for a second time - in 2009 for a Daytime Emmy Award in the categories of Best Culinary Program and Best Culinary Host. Ina won her first Emmy award in the later category.

Despite the Emmy and Emmy nominations, Barefoot Contessa has limited airings these days…so set your TiVo to scourer through all hours of the day to record this dying out breed of a cooking show.

My Favorite Food Things - Day #1 - Herbs

When it comes to herbs my favorites are tarragon and marjoram.

Tarragon is an underused herb in the US. This herb has a slightly bittersweet taste and smells much like anise (another favorite of mine). Fresh tarragon will kick up any chicken, pasta, egg, or vinegar dish without overbearing. The flavor is subtle, but significant. I also love nibbling on some fresh tarragon. The oils are a great breath cleanser. While native to Russia, tarragon today is predominantly produced in France. Speaking of France, tarragon is also one of the four major herbs in French cooking.

Marjoram, my second favorite herb is sometimes referred to as ‘Greek Oregano.’ It is true that marjoram is a type of oregano (in fact all marjorams are oreganos, but not all oreganos are marjorams). The marjoram that we use in the US is far superior to our oreganos. (In fact I do not like oregano, at all!) Part of the mint family…the minty flavoring is much more prominent in marjoram than oregano. Marjoram is also much sweeter and milder than oregano which can be too hot and overpowering. I love to dab a little marjoram in my lamb, veal, and soup dishes.

These two herbs – always underused in American kitchens – will bring your dishes to a more tasty level. Buy some and try nibbling the leaves, grind some up in a mortal with a pestle and lick the oils, then imagine smothering a lamb chop with marjoram or stuffing a chicken with tarragon and you’ll know what I’m talking about.