Le Cordon Bleu - Instruction #11; Practical #11

Chef Poupard has been filling in for vacationing Chef Terrien. Instruction #11 was the second – or third – time he’s graced Superior demonstration.

Instruction #11

• Shot glass of guacamole and ceviche
• Roast turbot fillet, asparagus and langoustine tails with bacon, red pimentos stuffed with herb mousse
• Beet ravioli with berries

Explaining guacamole is not new to anyone. Every household has their own special version. à la Le Cordon Bleu; avocados – fork mashed – lime juice, green bell pepper, olive oil, sour cream, cilantro, and red onion. Spiced only with Tabasco.

Thinly sliced cod altered in a marinade of lime juice and vodka. Flavored by a medley of red; chili, pepper, and onion. Citrus acidity denatures and coagulates seafood proteins. Mimicking heat by toughening the fish and erasing the opaque appearance.

Presented with spring onions, dill, and cilantro leaves. A great summertime entrée.

I can never quite get the smell of fish. Out of my hands, apron, or chef coat. Turbot was the day’s culprit.

Native to brackish waters of all European seas – Mediterranean, Black, and Baltic. This is an odd creature. Born swimming upright. It slowly turns. Swimming flat as adults. Most often mistaken for sole.

Fish-infused hands we prepared the main course. Starting with filleting – this bugger has four. Knowing that stuffing pimentos – Spanish red bell peppers – was down the road, we reserved any turbot trimmings for a mousse. A mousse of whipped fish, cream, and fresh herbs.

Asparagus stems were stewed. And tips blanched.

A fumet/sauce took shape from langoustine and turbot carcasses, shallots, garlic, celery, vermouth, and water. Emulsified with olive oil in the end.

The presentation was nice. But. For a non-fish lover. The taste was marginal. Flat-lined and, well, fishy.

First we made dessert out of tomatoes. And now beets. Odd ideas for the final course of a meal. But, so far. They’re working.

Similar to candied tomatoes, beets were braised in syrup for three-ish hours. Finely sliced to look like ravioli dough. And stuffed with brunoise blackberries, raspberries, and strawberries mixed with fromage blanc and lightly whipped cream.

Paired with fromage blanc sorbet and a final raspberry tuile.

Yummy moans were heard throughout.

Chef Clergue liked my presentation. Only issue was that my stuffed pimento was bigger than the turbot. Dwarfing the center stage and possibly cheating a future diner. Taste and doneness was good all around.

Le Cordon Bleu - Practical #10

When I think of practicals. These days. I don’t have much to say.

Having become common place and routine, practicals tend to go by without incidence. That’s not to say that faults, confusion, and mishaps don’t still occur. Suggesting only another day in the kitchen.

With that said. I’ll try to think of some creativity for my comments on Practical #10.

There’s no doubt that the room was filled with an aroma. That transported us to North Africa. Or at least some land foreign to French soil. Szechuan pepper, coriander and cumin seeds, cinnamon sticks, star anise, and cloves gently simmered. In a sauce of honey, balsamic vinegar and veal stock. Traditionally flavored with onions, shallots, and tomatoes.

Slowly braising lamb shanks should take three or four hours. Respecting limited practical time Chef Poupard instructed us to let it cook for one hour. Practical Chef – some guest chef – thought otherwise. His constant, pas cuit comment got old after some time. We all got it – let meat braise for a long time.

Making chlorophyll – to essentially color – for gnocchi was a first for me. Quickly blanching leeks greens, parsley and tarragon stems, and spinach leaves in boiling, salted water helps fix the bright green color.

Once the greenery was shocked in ice water – additional assurance of a bright green color – and dried, they were blended. Into a green slurry. On extremely low heat water slowly evaporated. Ultimately leaving green pulp, chlorophyll.

Mixing the final product in prepared gnocchi batter transformed the pale, golden-yellow, potato mash into a beautiful green glow. Poached and served along white salsify and brown lamb shanks really made them pop.

It was a start-and-stop type of practical. Rush to get the lamb in the oven. Wait for potatoes to bake. Zip to stew the salsify. Pause to poach the gnocchi. Hurry to reduce the braising liquid. And hold off on final plating.

The end turned out good. Comments of cooking the lamb longer from guest Chef permeated everyone’s feedback.

Eating the uncooked lamb for lunch. I think the one hour from last night was more than enough cooking time.

Like A Phase of the Moon

Not sure if it’s burn out. Frustration. Home sickness. Or simply the heat. But. There’s a sense of stillness within me and my friends.

Our level of enthusiasm has lowered. The spunk has waned. The glee is minimal.

I sometimes feel unappreciative. Living in Paris going to cooking school. And my only response is how lonely, difficult, and frustrating life is some days. Recent visitors – James, parents, father-in-law – temporarily spark things up.

Free days are becoming more difficult to fill. The interest of exploring Paris has ceased. Too much free time releases my wandering mind. Thoughts of the future stress me out. Ideas about school are second guessed. And my emotional-self is unfulfilled.

My time here. With you. Inside my blog. Is a chance to share what is happening in life. Yes, it is an opportunity to glimpse inside Le Cordon Bleu. And yes, it is where we laugh about foreign living. But, it is also a place where we talk about daily emotions.

From the initial frustration I shared about trying to speak French. To the joy I realized when I did well in school. All the way to the pain I felt every time I said goodbye to James.

I spend much of my time trying to wrangle the darting thoughts in my head. Attempting to find a job. Worrying about an upcoming practical. Figuring out how to pack. Concerned that the laundry is taking too long. Unsure why my friends are in funks. Reminiscing past visits. Along fifty other thoughts, they bounce uncontrollably in my brain.

Like life. This process of LCB/Paris waxes and wanes. Ebbs and flows. Rises and falls. There was never an expectation that everyday would be filled with rapture. I knew full well moments of sadness, confusion, second guessing, and loneliness would be part of the deal.

I didn’t know it would be this hard, I sometimes think to myself.

Less than two months remaining. These emotions that my friends and I share. Will certainly pass.

What goes down, must come up.

Le Cordon Bleu - Instruction #10

One third through Superior Cuisine already. Lesson #10 was presented by Chef Poupard first thing Saturday morning.

Instruction #10

• Fresh artichoke salad, ricotta gnocchi, lemon peel and dandelion leaves
• Lamb shank slowly cooked with spices, roll-cut salsify and potato gnocchi with herbs
• Pineapple and vanilla brochettes with gingerbread, coconut sauce with saffron

I’ve said it before. But. This may have been the best menu at Le Cordon Bleu.

Gnocchi made of ricotta, yolk, flour, and parmesan were gently poached. And served cold with cooked artichokes, pearl onions, and dandelion leaves. All tossed with lemon vinaigrette. Garnished with oven dried tomatoes.

The star of the day was the main course. Fork-tender lamb slow braised in honey and balsamic liquid. Flavored with Szechuan pepper, coriander and cumin seeds, cinnamon sticks, star anise, and cloves. The aroma was enough to make your mouth water.

Deliciously served with potato gnocchi. Colored – and flavored – with leek, parsley, tarragon, and spinach chlorophyll. Baked potatoes mixed with flour and egg yolks gave these gnocchi substance and form.

Salsify – white, root vegetable – stewed in water, lemon juice, and milk. Nicely finished off the plate.

Dessert was not only presented beautifully. It tasted equally so. Gingerbread and coconut flavors permeated the entire plate. Including caramel, pineapple sauce finished with Malibu and coconut milk.

Stay tuned for Monday’s practical.

Le Cordon Bleu - Instruction #9; Practical #9

I need to jump right to the dessert.

Candied tomatoes. After some syrup – 80% water, 20% sugar – infused with vanilla bean has cooled. Drop in firm, peeled, gutted tomatoes to macerate overnight. The final texture and taste is that of candied pears.

Stuffed with brunoise strawberries, raspberries, white grapes, blackberries, and peaches. Drizzled with raspberry purée flavored coulis and Sauternes. The tomato takes on a whole new meaning.

As Chef Clergue mentioned the shortbread smelled like his bathroom. He, obviously, is not a fan of lavender. Cutting the lavender quantity in half helps with the potency.

After discussing which wines pair the best with dessert – answer was Tokai, Banyuls, or Sauternes – Chef moved on to the day’s entrée.

Instruction #9

• Lightly roasted langoustines and zucchini blossom with herbs
• Red mullet fillets with potato scales, orange butter and Barigoule style artichokes
• Candied tomatoes stuffed with red berries, wine sauce and lavender shortbread

Lining a mold with fresh blossoms. Chef filled the flower with flan – cream, fromage blanc, eggs, and finely diced herbs. Wrapped in plastic. And steamed until the center was set. Having only had fried zucchini flowers, this was new to me.

The center flan was deliciously balanced. Firmness from the egg and fresh flavor from the herbs. The blossom was almost flavorless. A bit too, well, flower-y.

Finished with a red pepper coulis that must be repeated. Simply. Oven-roasted red bell peppers blended with salt and olive oil.

A final cappuccino of tarragon infused milk was prepared. Adding a bit of contemporary-ness to the plate. I don’t remember tasting this component, so I don’t think it made it to my tasting plate.

I’ve actually come to like red mullet. A small, compact fish. Easy to stuff, fillet, or serve whole. Today’s preparation was a bit tedious though.

Small potato scales were blanched and stuck to the fish with egg yolk. Pan-fried in clarified butter gave the scale sensation some depth. An interesting approach to say the least.

Now this beurre-blanc was good. Typical sauce as we’ve made in the past. Only difference was a final addition of orange syrup – juice greatly reduced. Giving the sauce a hint of tropical orange. Cutting the strong butter flavor.

A final garnish of stewed artichokes and pearl onions finished off the plate.

There is a new chef at Le Cordon Bleu – name escapes me. He hails from Morocco, but acted like he owned the school during Thursday’s practical. In the end he was harmless and I think he enjoyed our group. We’ll see how future sessions go with him.

Wrapping Up Mom and Dad's Visit

Luggage weighing a bit more than their arrival. They hopped in a cab by 7:30 a.m. And scooted down Boulevard de Grenelle. Moving further away from me. Destination, Charles de Gaulle airport.

My parents’ visit was beyond great. We not only ticked off everything on their must do list. But snuck a few extras in there too.

Our last day together was spent visiting, learning, and tasting sparkling wine in Champagne. A slick one hour and ten minute train ride from Gare de l’Est. And a short walk into town. Brought us to our first destination.

Founded on Champagne’s inventor, Dom Pérignon, Moët et Chandon is the largest of all houses in Epernay. Epernay is the closest town to Paris in the Champagne region. After an hour tour of the grounds, cellars, and history we finally tasted. True Champagne. In Champagne.

Most houses – synonymous with wineries – shut down for a two hour lunch. Heading into the heart of Epernay we found a great outdoor café to eat. A bit rosé Champagne in the hot sun set our meal just right.

We capped the day with another visit – tour and tasting – at Mercier. The story was similar to that of Moët et Chandon. But the drinks were better, and cheaper. We picked up a few souvenirs here.

We arrived back to Paris in the early evening. Perfect for one more dinner. Transporting ourselves to the Latin Quarter – one more neighborhood for Mom and Dad to experience. We settled on some Vietnamese. A great place with a nice patio that caught a bit of a breeze.

A quick metro ride back to the hotel neatly wrapped up their visit. They were off to pack for their early morning cab ride.

Visits like these are always too fast. I miss them dearly.